Why Tofu Fox?

If you're in Japan, take a day to slow down down. Tune out the neon and blaring J-pop.  Ignore the towering billboards plastered with the latest golf products, It Bags, and hair straighteners for men. Skip the trains, park the car and just start walking. As you wander, peek between skyscrapers, or maybe cycle to the end of a quiet, neighborhood street. Poke in the corners of a shrine complex. Chances are, you'll happen upon the kitsune- the Japanese fox.  

The fox makes its supernatural appearance in many a Japanese folktale.  Sometimes a faithful guardian, sometimes vaguely evil, often personified as female, the Japanese fox is a master shape-shifter.  Also closely tied with the Shinto deity Inari*, foxes are believed to be the agricultural spirit's messengers.

A small fox shrine in Machida.

Figuring out whether or not you are looking at an Inari shrine is usually fairly easy. These shrines are often entered through vivid, red torii gates.  Fox statues may flank the gates, as well as the altar.  Red bibs often adorn the necks of these stone foxes, as a sign of worshippers' respect (such an example can be seen in my blog's header photo above).

A slightly larger Inari shrine in Machida.

Inari worship not only encompasses agriculture.  The spirit(s) were also believed to protect warriors, bring good luck, and grant children to barren women.  Some fox statues can be seen holding a jewel, key, scroll, or sheaf of wheat, depending on which characteristic is being invoked.  Offerings brought by worshippers beseech the fox messengers to plead with Inari on the worshipper's behalf.

Inari's fox messengers are often white.

Easily the most famous fox shrine in Japan is the Fushimi Inari shrine.  Located on the outskirts of Kyoto, a visit to this shrine is well worth the extra hike.  Seemingly thousands of vermillion torii gates make this shrine a photographer's dream!  Of course, I couldn't get enough of the fox statues that keep their silent watch.

A fox, with a jewel or ball in its mouth, stands guard at the entrance to the tunnel of torii.

A dramatic tunnel of the torii at the Fushimi Inari shrine.

A short hike up the mountain and through the torii brings visitors to an altar.  Here, you can purchase one of the wooden plaques (shaped like a fox, of course) and write your wish to the Inari spirits.  Perhaps, if you're lucky, your wish may be granted!

A fox watches a shrine sale in full swing.

On the guardian kitsune's flip side are the spooky, mystical foxes of Japanese folktales.  These foxes are not Inari's revered messengers.  These foxes like to assume human form and bewitch the unsuspecting.  They seduce young women, only to disappear.  They marry human men and have their children.  In a fit of temper, they may burn an offending human's house down.  They are the wandering priest, the mysterious drinking companion, the beautiful maiden caught in a glimpse and never seen again.  These fox spirits are tolerated when they appear...as long as they continue quickly on their way.  


As recently as the early 20th century, being possessed by a fox was a common diagnosis of insanity in Japan.

So, that is the "Fox" part of The Tofu Fox.  This animal that so often shows up in Japan is also a play on my real-life last name.  But what about the "Tofu" part?

Foxes are reputed to be extremely fond of deep-fried tofu.  Offerings to a shrine's kitsune statues and altars may include this special treat.  Sometimes, a more tricky fox may choose to attach itself to a  human household.  Should this happen to you, treat your fox properly by feeding your fox kitsune (fox) udon!  This noodle dish is so named because of a very specific addition- deep-fried tofu.  Inari-zushi, a pouch of fried tofu filled with rice, is another excellent choice. Who knows?  Your deep-fried tofu-sated fox may decide to exert its powers on your behalf!

My kitsune udon noodle bowl at a restaurant in Nara.  Notice the piece of deep-fried tofu!

Interested in visiting Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha (shrine)?  Take the JR Nara line from Kyoto Station to the JR Inari Station.  Make sure you take a local train, as express trains do not stop here.  The trip takes only about five minutes and costs 140 yen one way.  


A friend of mine visited Fushimi Inari shrine at night.  Don't miss her ghostly photos...they are tempting me to go back!


*The Inari deity is actually often considered to be 3-5 kami (Shinto spirits).  The Fushimi Inari shrine has five kami enshrined as Inari.


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!