Monday, December 31, 2012

Happy New Year!

Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu!  Happy New Year from Japan!  While the Chinese have said farewell to 2012 and their luckiest year- the Year of the Dragon- the Japanese are saying hello to 2013 and their luckiest year- the Year of the Snake.  

Thank-you, readers, for joining Little TF and me on our adventures during this past year.  We wish you all a wonderful 2013, wherever you may be in the world!

My neighborhood wagashi shop was selling snake-themed New Year treats this week.
Of course, one of them had to come home with me!  


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!


Thursday, December 20, 2012

Yuletide in Yomiuriland




We're one week into Little Tofu Fox's three week, Christmas/O-shogatsu vacation.  When I picked her up last Friday afternoon, I was super excited to have my kid home for three weeks; by Tuesday, she was already begging me to go back to preschool.  Preschool is either that awesome, or I am that lame.  I choose to believe the former.

In the middle of Tuesday morning's epic, breakfast "I want to go back to preschool"whining episode, just as I was realizing that we still had two weeks and six days of vacation to go, Mr. TF reminded me that he would be flying late that night.  Little TF and I looked at each other in horror.  No one to save us from each other?  All day?  I decided upon an early activation of the Christmas Break Emergency Entertainment plan: a trip to Yomiuriland!



In the beginning of December, I asked one of my students which Tokyo Christmas illuminations she most recommended.  She named the Tokyo Midtown lights, and  Jewellumination- the light displays at the Yomiuriland amusement park.  "Yomiuriland's lights have been done by a very famous light designer," my student added, "The park is located off the Odakyu Line."

I take the Odakyu Line all the time, and was surprised to hear of an amusement park nearby.  I've been passing roller coasters for almost three years and never noticed them?  Geez, I really need to stop checking Facebook on my phone and look out the train windows more often!  Since Mr. TF wasn't going to be home till late that evening, I decided it was the perfect time for Little TF and I to have some mother/daughter bonding time while enjoying amusement park rides and Christmas lights.  Our stuck-at-home crisis averted, we waved good-bye to Mr. TF, packed a lunch, and took the train to the Odakyu Line's Yomiurilandmae Station!



Mae, in Yomiurilandmae Station, means, "in front of."  Street corners in front of landmarks- such as  schools- will often have a street sign that says Nameofschoolmae.  In front of such-and-such a school.  So, I didn't even bother looking at Yomiuriland's English website for directions.  This one was going to be easy!

Or not...



After getting off at Yomiurilandmae Station and looking around, I had a realization.  The reason I have never noticed an amusement park as my train shot past Yomiurilandmae Station, is because Yomiuriland is not, in fact, in front of the station.  Not even walking-distance-in-front-of the station.  After matching my limited Japanese reading skills to the Japanese-language-only map outside the station, I realized that we would have to take a bus to Yomiuriland.

As previously discussed in other blog posts, I hate taking buses with Little TF.  The stroller has to be unpacked  (why do I stuff so many empty drink bottles in the basket?!) and folded, and prayers have to be said for an empty bus seat for Little TF. She's still a bit too young to balance on a careening bus, and I'm too busy trying to keep her folded stroller from smacking into an elderly person to safely keep her on her feet.  Also, bus schedules are never in English.  Never, ever, ever.  So unless I already know exactly which bus to get on, and which direction in which to go, we will circle around on buses for hours.  It's just the kind of situation that sets foreigners up to look dumb, confirming any and all Japanese stereotypes, which I generally try not to do.  So, for all of the above reasons, I avoid buses like the plague.



This time, however, I had no choice.  Fortunately, my very limited and very deplorable Japanese reading comprehension has advanced just enough for me to decipher the characters for Yomiuriland on the bus timetables. Much laborious kanji checking and painfully slow katakana reading later, I confirmed the  proper bus number.  We crossed the street (dragging the stroller up and down the stairs-only pedestrian crossing bridge...was nothing about getting to Yomiuriland going to be easy?) and found our bus stop.  Since it was a school day for older Japanese kids, we were apparently the only ones going to Yomiurilandmae at one o'clock in the afternoon.  We boarded a very empty bus and each found a seat.  Finally, an easy part!



Three stops later, we got off at Yomiuriland.  The empty bus was an accurate predictor of the situation at the park...we practically had the place to ourselves!  A few families with young children, and small groups of young people were wandering around, but that was it.  Little TF and I could hardly believe our luck!  We went on ride after ride, sometimes four or five times in a row, and were usually the only people on them.  Little TF also enjoyed the mostly empty sea lion show, twice.  Yomiuriland is a little old and shabby in the daylight, but Little TF didn't care and we had a great time riding the classic amusement park rides that I enjoyed as a kid.



Dusk approached and the crowds began to arrive.  We were in the middle of riding the child-size "roller coaster" when sudddenly all the lights turned on!  Every inch of Yomiuriland lit up. The landscaping was blanketed, the roller coaster tracks were outlined, the cars on the spinning rides were festively decked out, and the ferris wheel was bathed in a spectrum of color.  Little TF had already decided that we were having a much better day than previously expected, so the added bonus of so many beautiful Christmas lights made Mommy a hero.  Ha!  Take that, preschool!



The water park section of Yomiuriland was closed during the day (how did I not know about the water park during this past sweltering summer?) , but opened at night for special waterside illuminations.  It was spectacular, especially the waterfall of lights spilling off the tallest water slide!



What's more fun than getting dizzy on amusement rides during the daytime? Getting dizzy on rides at night, while surrounded by Christmas lights!  Little TF and I went on a few more rides and munched on hot pretzels while watching dance troupes perform Christmas routines, before I judged that rush hour on the trains had probably settled down enough for us to head back home.  Little TF managed to get the last seat on the return bus, and then we scrolled through photos of our fun day as our train zipped us home.  Day two of Christmas break was declared a resounding success by all.  Only two more weeks to go!

Pray for me.




Yomiuriland's Jewellumination is running from now until February 17.  Visit the Yomiuriland website for a link to the English page.  Different types of tickets are available, depending on the ages of any children and how many attractions you want to enjoy.  The English page also has a discount coupon that can be printed out.  If you are going only to see the lights, there is also an admission-only ticket available for purchase.  Since Japanese schools are now on winter break, expect bigger crowds during the daytime.

Directions:  Take a local train on the Odakyu Line to Yomiurilandmae Station.  Exit on the north side of the station to avoid having to take the stupid, stairs-only pedestrian bridge.  Look for the bus stop next to the police box, at the bottom of the pedestrian bridge, and board the #1 bus.  Yomiuriland is only a few stops away!


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

New Book: Japanese Farm Food

Since my Miyajima posts won't be ready for a bit (apparently I took a lot of photos), I decided to quickly wrap up this cookbook review that has been sitting in my box, half-finished, for far too long.  It may be too late to order in time for Christmas, unless you're a lucky reader in the States with access to Amazon's two day shipping and a fully functioning post office.  In that case, you should probably just open another web page and order this cookbook before we continue any farther.  It's that good.



I call it a cookbook, but Nancy Singleton Hachisu's Japanese Farm Food is more than that.  Toss in some old, Japanese farming techniques; discussions of antique furniture; the mixing of Japanese and American families;  appreciating the seasons through food; how Shinto beliefs influence the family's life and traditions; the tension between history and modernity; and, yes, delicious recipes; and what we have here is a diary/theology/family tree/travelogue kind of cookbook.  Japanese Farm Food is even a work of art, with its exquisitely bound cover and gorgeous photography stuffing the pages.  When it first arrived in the mail, I couldn't put it down for days.



Most of the recipes in Japanese Farm Food are almost laughably simple, using three to six ingredients, at most.  This is, to me, the genius of traditional, Japanese cooking.  The individual flavors added to a dish can be appreciated, while enjoying the flavor of the dish as a whole.  Nothing is overwhelmed or too strong...nuance can be thoroughly savored.  I'm excited to make the cabbage and yuzu dish (pictured above) to go with this evening's meal!



There is an excellent section on fish, with discussions about sashimi, crab, salmon, and clams. However, as this is a book about farm food in Japan, most of the recipes are unapologetically cheap to recreate, with many dishes hinging on vegetables.  Other Japanese classics such as curry rice, teriyaki chicken, and udon have also been included.  Mmmmmm...curry rice!




Hachisu also talks about how her husband revived the family business, returning to time-honored farming techniques that are disappearing from Japan.  Their 80-year-old family farm house is essentially the most important member of the family, sheltering and watching over the mixing of generations, cultures, and culinary traditions.  Some tension is apparent as Hachisu muses over her life as it has evolved in Japan, which I appreciate.  It can be hard to find the balance between having a good attitude and also admitting that this living overseas thing is sometimes flat-out miserable.  I'm glad she doesn't gloss over her struggles.




One of my favorite sections is visual references for cooking techniques.  That's how egg is added on top of katsudon!



There is also an excellent reference section in the back for sourcing ingredients when back in the States.   Thank-goodness, because otherwise, I'm going to have to plant a yuzu tree in my backyard once we move to the East Coast.  There are some foods I can no longer live without!



I love getting to peek into Hachisu's family as I flip through the gorgeous pages of this cookbook.  Her purist farmer husband, her lively boys, her hard-working mother-in-law, and her happy English students are all fascinating characters within this Japanese cooking story, and their stories are woven throughout.  Hachisu reminds me that no matter how long one lives anywhere, there is always more to learn.


Japanese Farm Food, by Nancy Singleton Hachisu, can be purchased on Amazon.  Thanks to a friend who found this book and told me about it.  


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!

Monday, December 17, 2012

Misty Miyajima

The Tofu Fox family spent this past weekend sightseeing in Hiroshima and Miyajima with Mr. Tofu Fox's parents!  The rain mercifully held off until we'd finished my our most important sightseeing- soaking up the splendor of Itsukushima Shrine.  

Designated one of Japan's Most Scenic Spots, I don't think anyone- having seen Itsukushima Shrine in person- can disagree with the official title.  I have hundreds of photos to go through and several blog posts to write about our trip, but I wanted to post my two favorite photos right away.  

Such a dreamy spot, where earth and water meet.



Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Your (Kid's?) Lunch Box Needs This, Now!

I love how clean Japan is.  There may not be soap in public restrooms, but eating out- whether sitting down at a restaurant, or purchasing a meal to go- is almost always accompanied by a moist towelette.  Forget to wash your hands before eating? No problem!  An army of moist towelettes to the rescue!  At nicer restaurants, the temperature is even adjusted by the season.  Hot towels in winter, cold towels in summer.  Since I'm a bit of a germaphobe and get grossed out over our American custom of shaking hands (Why do we do this?  It's so dirty.), I really appreciate this part of Japanese culture.  

So, when I was browsing a home goods shop last week, I could hardly contain my delight when my eyes landed on this little guy:



A machine-washable cotton towelette- complete with bumble bee case- to pack in my Little TF's bento lunch?  KAWAII!  Cutest towelette set, ever. 

How have I missed them for so long?  I can't visit a 100 yen store without exploring the bento aisle, and I pack Little TF a bento lunch almost every day.  I have a whole bin of nifty bento lunch paraphernalia, including the seaweed punches that punch cute, little faces out of sheets of nori and a special tweezers to place the cute, little faces in exactly the correct spot.  Where have these tiny towels and cases, that bring adorable cleanliness to lunch boxes, been hiding all my life? 



Then I saw this pink towelette and case sitting next to the bumble bee.  Gah!  So cute!  I asked a friend to help me decide which towel set had to come home with me.  Bumble bee...pink bunnies...bumble bee...pink bunnies...   Then I realized that this was a decision that couldn't be made.  I bought both.



Vote:  Which towelette set is cuter?

The bumble bee case!  It has a stinger on its bum!
The bunny rabbits!  They're PINK!


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you! 


Sunday, December 9, 2012

Today's Photo (Hello Kitty Vending Machine)

Somewhere in Japan- alongside the expressway that speeds from Tokyo to the Tohoku region- lives Little Tofu Fox's favorite vending machine.

One more reason to love Japan...and Hello Kitty.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Christmas On The Kanto!

This is normally stuff that I put up on my Tofu Fox Facebook page, but the new changes to Facebook means only about 30% of subscribers actually see the events that I post (thanks, Facebook).  Since Little TF and I love Christmas, we can't let the season go without telling as many of you as possible about the fabulous Christmas light displays in and around Tokyo!

Tokyo Station's newly renovated facade and Christmas illuminations.
Photo courtesy of the Japan National Tourism Organization

Where To See Christmas Lights!


Japan National Tourism Organization:  A listing of the most dazzling Christmas displays in Tokyo, Miyagi, Osaka, Hyogo, Nagasaki, and Hokkaido.

Gotokyo.com: Festival Of Light 2012.  Almost a million bulbs light up some of Tokyo's tallest trees

Merry Christmas, Miyagase:  Visit the the town of Miyagase, located between Sagamihara and Atsugi, for Miyagase's fantastic Christmas displays.  Visit Santa, sip hot chocolate, ride the sparkling choo choo train, and wander across the glittering bridge that spans the lake. We did this the first year we were here, and it was so much fun that we are doing it, again. Driving directions and directions by public transportation are all on their Google-translated website, as well.  If you've got small kiddos, bring some blankets to bundle up!

Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest:  This park has sledding (courtesy of snow machines), a five-story maze, obstacle courses, a ferris wheel, and a Christmas light display of four million lights.  Looks like a fairly reasonable drive from Tokyo!

Yomiuri Land:  I asked one of my students to tell me her favorite place to view Christmas lights, and she picked Yomiuri Land.  Located on the Odakyu Line, Yomiuri Land has roller coasters, bungee jumping, sea lion shows, go-karts, laser tag, and lots of other rides.  For the holiday season, Yomiuri Land is presenting the Yomiuriland Jewellumination.  With display names like "jewelry road" and "diamond canyon", the Tofu Fox family might have to put this one on our To Do list!


Edited To Add:

Roppongi Hills German Christmas Market:   Do you love gluhwein, sauerkraut, bratwurst, and stollen?  Spinning Weihnachtspyramide and Kathe Wohlfahrt's wooden ornaments?  This small, but delightful, Christmas market is for you.  I spent two years of my late elementary school years living in Germany, and Roppongi Hills' market brings back all my special memories.  I can't believe I forgot to add this one!  Roppongi Hills also has plenty of lights to dazzle, with the Artelligent Christmas 2012 displays!


What did I miss?  Do you have any suggestions for must-see Christmas light displays?  


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you! 


Sunday, December 2, 2012

Enjoying Fall Color in Tokyo...At Night!

So far this year, you've come along with me as Little TF and I have gone: lotus-viewinghydrangea-viewingchrysanthemum-viewingiris-viewingmoon-viewinglucky cat-viewing...basically as many Japanese viewings as possible!  While autumn leaves may be in full blaze on the Kanto Plain right now, the Christmas season has kicked into high gear at the Tofu Fox house. We are getting ready for my in-laws to pay us a visit, holiday parties are crowding our weekends, and, oh yeah!  Mr. TF came home from deployment!  Welcome home, hubby!  WE MISSED YOU.  

Way back in early November, before Mr. TF came home, I heard about the evening autumn displays at one of Tokyo's most famous gardens, Rikugien.  Knowing how insane December would be, I immediately booked a babysitter for a date night and put Rikugien on our calendar.  Even though I love Christmas, Japan's autumn season is stunning and deserving of appropriate appreciation.

Fortunately, Rikugien was our second post-deployment date night, because we got into a fight on our first post-deployment date night.  This is pretty much tradition with us.  "Hi, sweetie!  It's so good to have you home!  Let's go on a hot date and smooch and have all those fights on which we didn't want to waste precious emails and Skype calls!"  So, we did.  At least this time we made it through dinner, first.  Like I said, it's tradition.  

Having gotten that first, post-deployment date night fight out of the way, we were excited to thoroughly enjoy each other's company during a romantic evening at Rikugien!



Rikugien is one of the oldest gardens in Tokyo.  Commissioned by a Tokugawa shogun in 1702, the garden was miraculously spared by WWII bombs.  Its mountain and pond-style design is based on Chinese and Japanese poetry divisions, which somehow relates to the number six, the number which is also inspiration for the garden's name "Riku-".  During the Meiji period, Rikugien was owned by the founder of Mitsubishi, who then donated to the City of Tokyo in 1938.  If someone has a Japanese garden they need to unload, I'm currently accepting donations.



Every autumn, Rikugien hosts a special, night-time illumination.  And, I suspect, a Christmas one as well...I saw many pine trees strung with darkened lights.  The park was filled with strolling crowds, hot food and drink stands, snuggling couples, parents with sleeping babies, and enthusiastic photographers with tripods.  Lots of tripods.

Mr. TF and I, bundled up against the chill, paid our entrance fee, grabbed an English map (we were also offered a French map, which kind of made me happy), and crunched down the dark paths in search of our first illumination.

What a stunning maple tree!

I really wish my photographs did nighttime Rikugien justice.  Around every corner were brilliantly lit maple trees, a sparkling pond complete with perfect reflections on its surface, or a curving bridge with shadows thrown into sharp relief.  In spite of being surrounded by Tokyo, the only noises we heard were the sounds of nature, happy crowds...and clicking cameras.







Imo-yama/Se-yama.  This two hills are located on the large island that floats in the pond's center.  "Imo" and "se" were old Japanese terms for "woman" and "man".  The hills are said to represent Izanagi and Izanami, the brother and sister who create Japan in the country's myth of origins.
Of course, the most proper way to appreciate Rikugien's illuminations is from a tea house.
As Mr. TF is unable to sit on his knees for any length of time, we passed.

We had soup and sake instead.  I finally ate something in Japan that I hate (besides raw sea urchin): O-den. O-den
is filled with squishy things, none of which were identifiable.  The broth, however, was delicious, so I drank that. 
This portion of the garden was filled with hoses that let off steam.  The
steam created a fantastic, ghostly effect.  I could have sat here for hours.

The last part of our stroll brought us to this corner of the pond.  Maple trees nearly touched the pond's surface, created exquisite mirror images in the water's glassy surface.  This was Mr. TF's favorite spot.  


After declaring this second date night a resounding success, we stopped in at the French bakery across the street from Rikugien for dessert, before heading back to the station to catch our train home.  By now, the temperature had really dropped, so we ate our treats rather quickly.  What a delightful evening of autumn leaf viewing with my hubby!  I am so glad to have him home!


Rikugien's autumn illuminations will be available for viewing until December 9.  The garden's hours are extended for this event until 9:00 pm.  The tea houses take their last orders between 7:30 and 8:00 pm.  Wear warm clothes and comfortable shoes!

Access:  Komagome Station on the JR Yamanote Loop.  About 15 minutes from Shinjuku, or 25 minutes from Shibuya. Rikugien is a 5 minute walk from the station.  Check the guide map outside the station for directions, or just head up the hill on the southeast side of the station and then turn south (left) at the first major road.  The entrance to Rikugien is at the first major intersection.


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!