Reflections On Moon-Viewing

Scrolling through my computer's photo library, I suddenly stumbled upon these photos from October's visit to Sankeien Gardens to celebrate the Japanese tradition of otsukimi, or harvest moon viewing.  I can't believe I forgot to post about this, one of my most favorite things to do in Japan.  It was my second time visiting the gardens for otsukimi, and this time we actually saw the moon!  Yatta!

While we could have taken the train to Yokohama and then hopped on the bus to Sankeien Gardens, I had Little TF with me this time.  I never rode buses with a baby Little TF (wrangling a stroller on and off a bus- while holding a baby- was too ridiculous) and so I never really got into the bus-taking habit.   I also knew we'd be out a bit late, so I drove in the hopes that Little TF would fall asleep on the way back home (she did).

After driving through Yokohama and making a few wrong turns that were easily fixed, we arrived at the Gardens! Dusk was falling and a perfectly clear sky was promising a spectacular night of moon-viewing.  We paid the entrance fee at the automated machines, duly admired the cat posed just so under the paper lantern, and entered a darkening Sankeien Gardens.

Sankeien Gardens' pagoda is the first to greet visitors.  Built in Kyoto in 1457, this pagoda was brought to the Gardens, from its original temple home, in 1914.  The pagoda has been designated an Important Cultural Property by the Japanese government, and is a very recognizable symbol of the Gardens and the city of Yokohama.  I've never made it up the hill to admire the pagoda from up close, but it still appears in many of my photos from Sankeien!  The gravel crunched under our feet as we passed by several photography enthusiasts, giant telescoping lenses capturing the pagoda as it lit up against the fading light.


Otsukimi was traditionally celebrated by Heian aristocrats in the ancient imperial city of Kyoto.  Moon-viewing parties included evening boat rides, seasonal displays of flowers and food, poetry-composing sessions, and musical performances.  All of these were meant to enhance the the aristocratic appreciation of the moon in its finest hour, the autumnal equinox, when the moon is still said to sparkle the most.

Sankeien Gardens sponsors seasonal events for the weekend closest to the autumnal equinox, and I had put the dates on my calendar back in the spring.  My first otsukimi in 2010 still ranks as one of my top three Best Japan Experiences, and I couldn't wait to see what 2012 would bring!

After strolling through the outer garden and past the pagoda, we headed into Sankeien's inner garden and the Rinshunkaku.  Also an Important Cultural Property, this building was originally a summer residence belonging to the house of the Tokugawa shoguns.  It was brought to Sankeien Gardens and reassembled in 1918.  Decorated by famous artists, one of the rooms features paintings of Japanese musical instruments.  Perhaps that is why this the Gardens' otsukimi musical performances take place there!

Earlier that weekend, performances of traditional Japanese court dance and some of Johann Sebastian Bach's pieces for strings were performed.  We were able to make it to the performances of traditional Japanese music.  A crowd had already gathered around the Rinshunkaku and its neighboring pond, with attendees standing on a beautiful wooden bridge or seated on the soft lawn.  Usually the Rinshunkaku is closed up, but on this evening the sliding doors had been removed and the entire interior was open.

Little TF, our friend, and I got comfortable on the grass.  As the musicians came out and and seated themselves with their instruments- a biwa and bamboo flute- I pulled out a picnic dinner and some marshmallow bunny wagashi to encourage Little TF to be silent and eat listen.

The haunting tones of the biwa's plucked notes danced with the strains of the breathy bamboo flute.  A pleasant evening, the breeze sighed along with the music.  By now it was completely dark, and all eyes were on the brilliantly lit performance.  The biwa player's voice began to float above those of the instruments. All eyes were on the scene, that is, except for mine; Little TF had dropped her marshmallow bunny and was freaking out.

Marshmallow bunny saved and returned to its owner, silence returned to our patch of lawn.  We dreamily listened to a few more musical pieces, when the two original musicians were joined by another biwa player and a percussionist.  Eventually, I ran out of marshmallow bunnies and we regretfully left the poetic scene.  Perfect timing, as it turned out; the bright moon has just risen over the treetops.

Underneath the pagoda's hill is a small, wooden noodle shop.  It was quite busy on this celebratory evening, but we managed to snag a table with fantastic view of the moon.  Our friend ordered a noodle bowl with crispy tempura, and I ordered a bowl of noodles and mushrooms.  Having already eaten dinner, Little TF dispensed with the main course and chose dango for dessert #2.    

After dinner, we went for one last walk around the backside of the gardens, past darkened tea houses and over a tiny, rushing stream.  We slowly passed through a backlit bamboo forest and admired how the light threw the bamboo's graphic qualities into sharp relief.  Yet another perfect night of moon-viewing at Sankeien Gardens- but also bitter sweet.  It was the last Japan otsukimi for Little TF and me.  

 I shall be sad when fall returns.  I will miss Japan and Sankeien's otsukimi celebrations.  Although, next year, I will finally have a backyard.  Perhaps an East Coast otsukimi?  I hope so.


For directions to Sankeien Gardens by bus, as well as a link to the Gardens' English website, please visit my older post, Lovely Lotus And Sankeien Gardens.  The Gardens' website is worth checking out all year long- information on artistic and cultural events, as well as updates on what's blooming, is constantly updated.  Plum Blossoms are on my list for February.  If you'll be here next autumn, put the autumnal equinox on your calendar, now!


Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!