The Chrysanthemums Are Coming!

Shinjuku-gyoen's famous Chrysanthemum Festival was on my "must see" list last autumn.  My students laughed at me. "I think there will be a lot of old people there..."giggled one.  Chrysanthemums- stupendously boring flowers that State-side florists use to fill out cheap arrangements- are not so boring in Japan.  Not only is the chrysanthemum the symbol of Japan's imperial family; during the autumn season, Japanese gardeners exhibit chrysanthemum plants that seem to defy laws of nature.  I had to see them!

Every November, Shinjuku-gyoen (Shinjuku Park) puts on one of Tokyo's most well-known chrysanthemum displays.  Most appropriate, as this park used to belong to the imperial family. Post-WWII, the gardens were handed over the national government and designated as a public park.  With easy access from several train stations, huge swaths of grass for Little TF to run around, ponds full of koi, mossy tea houses, and muted city noise, Shinjuku-gyoen is one of my favorite parks in Tokyo.

The chrysanthemum display locations were clearly marked on a helpful signboard.  Since the flowers were scattered throughout the whole park, this meant wandering delightfully landscaped trails, past stone lanterns, and over curving bridges.

The garden may be located in the heart of Tokyo's Shinjuku Ward, but its huge size makes city noise barely noticeable.

 Many of the official displays were located in protective, three-walled shelters, which were draped with purple fabric.  Similar fabric swags (manmaku) can be seen at shrines or private residences, hung to mark an auspicious occasion or important location.  Fortunately, crowds on this particular weekday morning were nonexistent, which meant I was able to admire the displays to my hearts' content.

I was a professional floral designer for eight years before taking a hiatus shortly before Little TF was born and now that we are in Japan.  I never, in all that time, saw chrysanthemums as varied or  enormous.

Very few...anything...in Japan is well-marked in English.  This is not really a complaint (it's not like the United States is a standard-bearer in dual language assistance).  After visiting other Asian countries, I've become aware that Japan's lack of English-labeling efforts- in conjunction with the number of its citizens who study the language- is a bit bizarre.  Not so at Shinjuku-gyoen's Chrysanthemum Festival! Every display had a very informative sign about the variety of flower on display.

In addition to perfectly straight rows of flowers, there were also beautiful teardrops and enormous half circles.   I had to keep reminding myself that these were plants.

In what is possibly the most amazing feat of gardening that I have ever seen, closer inspection of these enormous, domed plants revealed that each bush was grown from a single stem.

One stem in the middle of the plant.

 If you can't make it to Shinjuku-gyoen during the Chrysanthemum Festival, definitely check it out another time.  It's a great place to take young kids.  There is a children's garden, lots of fish begging to be fed, soft stretches of grass, and even a Chinese pavilion.  Pack a picnic lunch or eat at one of the small cafes.  During early spring, the park is renowned for its cherry blossoms.  Enjoy the tranquil garden views from one of the small tea houses.  I've never managed to catch a tea house actually open, but I hope you do!

The 2012 Chrysanthemum Festival is from November 1-15.  Last year, I went on opening day.  I saw plenty of flowers, but there were still many displays that had not yet bloomed.  I'd recommend going around the middle of the festival, depending on the weather.  Click here for admission times, parking information, and a few park rules.  There is an entrance fee of 200 yen for adults and 50 yen for school-age children.  Children six years old and younger are free. 

Shinjuku-gyoen is a short walk from Shinjuku Station (head out the East Exit) or Shinjuku-gyoenmae Station.  

Disclaimer:  I do my best to make sure all my information is accurate.  However, details may change or I may just be flat-out wrong.  Please let me know if something needs a correction.  Thank-you!